Indiana Dunes 3-Dune Challenge Hike

I woke up today with anticipation of a hike I have been contemplating all summer. The 3-Dune Challenge (created by the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore as both outreach, and promotion of a healthier lifestyle) is a short trail traversing three large dunes, each extending over 150 feet above the level of Lake Michigan. Normally, one would travel by car (or by bike, if living nearby) into the Park. When approaching, the line of cars to enter extended nearly a mile. Near the end of the line was Dune Park train station, a stop for commuters working in Chicago. Parking there requires another 2 ¼ miles walk 1 mile to the Park entrance, and another 1¼ miles to the trailhead), but your arrival at the park gate will be well ahead of those you left in line.

A quick inquiry with one of the staff on the location was met first with a smile (in spite of the heat), and then with enthusiastic instructions on where to find the Nature Center, where most trails begin. At the Nature Center, once can find a small set of supplies, facilities, and a very helpful staff. Clearly, these rangers and staff members enjoy their work. Today’s hike would include not only the 3-Dune Challenge, but picking up Trail #10 for a longer, but more gradual extension to the hike. A short walk into the woods reveals the start of the 3-Dune Challenge.

Part 1: Three Dunes

Start of the 3-Dune Challenge

The first Dune is Mt. Jackson, at 176 feet above the lake level. It starts with a sudden and steep incline for a bit, then levels off for a while. Another steep incline leaves one at the top of Mt. Jackson with shoes full of sand. This second incline is over pure beach sand, soft and hot inclined directly toward the sun, and without shade. It offers a nice view of the lake, framed by trees. You have the luxury of sitting on a bench, if you want the sun beating down on you. Opting for a small clear spot under the trees offers shade.


Leaving the first peak is a quick jaunt down sandy trails. It’s hard not to end up running with the steepness of the trail. The decline is quickly replaced with another incline. Heading up Mt. Holden, 184 ft. above lake level, leaves little time for rest as the hiker is met with another difficult incline to the top. Here is a nice view of the lake with Chicago in the background. There is a particular smell to the sand dune. The mixture of the humus left by the under growth and the mild smell rising up from the sand heated by the sun mix to provide a very characteristic aroma. One trail leads down to the lake, the other on to the last of the dunes. Exiting Mt. Holding is met by another steep decline in thick sand.


There is no time at the bottom of the trail to take in a stroll. As soon as the decline is finished, it turns into another very steep incline. This one was tough. After the first incline, perhaps 60 feet, there is a leveling of the trail through the woods to a staircase finishing up the incline to the third dune. Tom is 192 feet above the level of the lake, and very steep. A view to the west reveals the lake, Chicago, and the many steel mills along the southern edge of Lake Michigan. Again, there are trails leading down to the beach, as well as a staircase heading down the west side of the dune.

From left to right, views from Mt. Jackson, Mt. Holder, and Mt. Tom.

Part 2: The Lakefront

At the bottom, it became evident that one of the trails leading to the beach was the better option, as going too far puts on on the road leading to the beach parking lot, and the throngs of beach goers. The landscape is lake to the north, followed by relatively flat sandy beach, which ends where the dunes begin. The dunes are marked by a sharp incline above the beach, with a mixture of trees, sand and saw grass. As a kid growing up in the area, I remember saw grass vividly. Being 1 ½ to 2 feet tall, it’s your friend in hide and seek. In the later summer months, however, as the grass begins to dry out from the heat, the sharp tips become needles that easily pierce the skin. After winding around the back of the beach, the trail map implies one is on Trail 10. There are no signs, however. Leaving the beach for the dunes reveals innumerable trails, however also not marked. Following the trails leads across many uphill and downhill paths, all consisting of very soft beach sand. Although the trails are a few hundred feet from the water’s edge, the sound of the waves are ever present, broken only by the power boats.

Looking out over the dunes at the lakefront. Trails wind all throughout the dunes above the beach.

Each step in this sand is like three over firm ground. The heat bears down from the sun, and back up from the sand. Every incline is followed by a rest in the nearest shady spot. Occasionally a rustle in the leaves is followed by the dashing of a lizard. With a healthy fear of humans, and the heat, they move so fast, it’s difficult to get a look at one. The largest are around 6 inches. When they do stop, their greenish-gray coloring becomes apparent, as do the black and white stripes running down their backs. Eventually a sign appears, marking Trail #9. A quick check of supplies reveals plenty of snacks, but water is in short supply - over half is gone. At this point, only the first third of the north side of the loop is complete. Trail #10 will have to wait for another day. Following the marker, the change takes the hiker south, into the wooded area of the Park.

Part 3: Woodland

Here, the ground became much firmer, which made hiking much easier. The firm and relatively level trail allows for a steady pace, in spite of tired muscles and sore joints. The shade is also a very welcome relief, cutting down on the need for water just a bit. Be prepared for mosquitoes, however. The humus retains moisture, and combined with the shade, makes a wonderful breeding ground.

The shade and firm ground made the last part of the trail much easier.

The wooded area is much quieter than the more popular 3-Dune area, or the beach. Even on the holiday weekend, there were only three encounters with other hikers. The remoteness also makes the back trails very quiet. The only sounds are the wind in the trees, the rustling squirrels, and the birds.

An elevation colored path.

Elevation profile of the path above.

Details

Min. Altitude: 156m
Max Altitude: 225m
Cumulative ascension: 325m
Distance: 9.8km (6.1 mi)
Duration: 3hr 24min
Temp: 85 deg F